![]() By the half turn point the crush washer will "feel" like it has set. A good proxy for how much more twist is needed once your hand can no longer apply sufficient torque to the bolt is a quarter turn with your ratchet and certainly no more than a half turn. As a result, first you take your drain bolt and attach it to the Torx 45 bit and "hand tighten" it into the pan. As a matter of fact, if you ask anyone who has had to replace their A4s oil pan you will gain a heightened sense of appreciation for why this is so important. ![]() So in the same sense that it is key not to over tighten your filter you never want to over tighten your drain bolt. ![]() Next is returning the drain bolt to the oil pan following drainage. Trust me you don't want a $4 washer being implicated in the death of a $4,500 engine. It is beyond important to verify the type of washer you have. Now if you look very very closely CRUSH washers have a more doughnut shape to them rather than a disc shape to them. It won't be a tsunami of oil but the key point is that crush washers will immediately cause a drip leak to form. How you know you have a crush washer is that the moment you crack the drain bolt you will IMMEDIATELY begin to see a moderately oil drip develop. Also, with regards to the drain bolt.so the key here is to firstly identify whether you have a crush washer or a conventional washer on your drain bolt. And obviously dip your finger into the NEW oil and rub the oil onto the rubber gasket of the new filter.the purpose of this is not really to ensure a close and proper fitting filter-to-filter housing connection as much as it is to ensure the rubber gasket part doesn't get damaged while you are screwing in the new filter. Next is that when you remove the old filter always use a shop rag to clean the filter housing of any debris or old dirty oil so that the new filter will make perfect seal with the filter housing upon replacement. You won't know whether the filter has made a good connection with the filter housing while the engine is off. Which brings me to my second point.ALWAYS get in your car with the hood up and the engine cover still on the ground to verify that oil is NOT leaking out of the bottom of the filter while the engine is running. Ultimately you only want to ensure that oil does not leak out of the bottom of the oil filter area when you start the car to verify. Oil filters on our cars only need to be HAND tightened and if you're a big guy like me you're going to want to use 50% of full power. Well over time that lock becomes ever tighter. An obviously highly inexperienced apprentice mechanic who serviced the car the last time I took it in when it was new really cinched it on "lock" tight. First, do not ever "vice grip" tighten your new oil filter on. I did however in this first thread want to talk about some of the finer points of an A4 oil change. I haven't had a chance to drive my car hard and will report back on any performance at the top end of the rev range. ![]() I noticed that the engine is certainly a lot less noisy and that is with the engine cover off which I know can muffle some of the drivetrain noise. Early signs point to this oil being VERY good. Just did an oil change on my B8 A4 S Line.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |